29 August 2006

Bike Luggage (2)

Thanks to the folks on http://www.ukgser.com/forums/ I have a few ideas for luggage. I like the idea of retaining the BMW System rails and getting the aluminium style boxes to go with it.

I don't really need them to be too Q/D as I am only aiming to use them for long trips and holidays, more for the convenience of getting them on and off.

Taking the "Street" (part no 01-052-0310-0) option of Touratech Zega panniers looks like a good option as hopefully on times when I am away for a short time I can (hopefully) still use the OEM System panniers... A guy called "Des" on the site has a set that look very nice and fit for my purpose.

Also, if I trade the GS I can (hopefully) bang the bike out with the System panniers. Although at the moment I have no intentions of flogging it off! My bank and I have an agreement that I keep it for another few years!

I've emailed Touratech GB and DE to see what the options are... I've seen them on the TT website and just need to check what other messing about there is to do as well as fitting the shorter rear indicators.

28 August 2006

Arrassing About - 9/10th September 2006 (5)

Nigel's idea is to do this... Looks good to me. Now all I have to do is find the emails that confirm the hotel and the Shuttle!

Getting to Arras at a reasonable time so how about once we get out of Coquelles head down the D roads to St Omer for coffee and waffles, or whatever. Then straight to Arras, so that we have time to look round the town before meeting up for a beer and some nosh. (75 miles roughly)


Fill up with fuel on Saturday when we arrive so that Sunday morning we can head off to the Canadian memorial near Vimy, then on to Lille for lunch. After lunch a steady ride back across country stopping at Cassels for a breather and more coffee, before getting to the shuttle around 17:00 (100 miles ish)


27 August 2006

Dover Castle - August 25th 2006

As we were still on holiday we had a drive out to Dover, one stop for a look around the Castle, and another to have lunch and sit above the Eastern Approaches to read in the sun in the White Cliffs Park.
If you are members of English Heritage or The National Trust, both would be free, if not, the Castle is £9.50 each and to park on the top of the White Cliffs is £1.50 per vehicle.
Although I have lived near Dover for many years, it's not a place I frequent very often, mainly to leave from the ferry terminal! So this was my first visit to the Castle.
The roots go back to the Saxons for a fort and the church, and to the Romans for the "Pharos" (pic 3).

Most of the work was done in the 13th centrury by Maurice, the engineer that Henry II entrusted to build the castle on the site of earlier fortifications.
There was a tidy up in time for Henry VIII's in 1539, when the castle was seen to be old and rather out of fashion. It was of course 300 years old by then.
It was given another face lift a couple of centuries later when Charles II's fiancee came to stay after her arrival from abroad.

This is the Roman "pharos" built not as supposed to warn navigators at sea of the land, but as a guide, Paired with one on the western approach it showed where the harbour was for the galleys crossing from France.
Only 4 storeys remain an dit is in excess of 40 feet tall. In Roman time sit would have ben 8 storeys tall with a beacon on the roof.
Pic 4 shows the approach to the Castle inside the outer wall but approaching the inner fortifide wall. The flag is flying form the top of the Keep.

Sissinghurst Castle Garden

.
After we got back from Austria we had a few days off and on one we went to Dover Castle, on another to Sissinghurst.


Here are a few of the pics I took with my Nikon Coolpix 8700, mostly on fully auto, but some, like the bee, using the pre-set close-up "mode".



Bike Luggage

I've always liked the look of the BMW oem luggage, seems to fit the bike, but after three and a half years of going away and I am finally coming round to the position that I need a change.

There is simply not enough room for two people's stuff for two weeks. This year even with the Lakeland compression bags, we were short of stuff and without washing facilities (or the weather to dry stuff!) we had loads of smelly togs, plus, the compression bags don't stop what you have got from getting creased to b*ggery.

So before the next longer trip, to the Isle of Man next June we need a re-think? I don't want uneven fittings, so Givi/Kappa panniers are out of the equation. So Touratech Zega? Kiwi Bob's? As they won't get used everyday they need to come off easily and not look like a scaffold stockpile when off... Suggestions?

26 August 2006

Tacheback!

Okay, so it might not seem all that cool to grow a 'Tache. Heck I am even crap at actually getting any decent facial hair to grow to look anything like nancy boy George Clooney manages, but it's all in a good cause.

Go to www.tacheback.com and see how you can help raise money. If you don't want to grow one yourself, or already have one, then sponsor me. Do this by going to https://www.bmycharity.com/V2/invictamoto and clicking on the buttons...

All I have to do it grow a tache in September. One measly month in my life to grow something as simple as a tache! Easy? I did it in 2004 and it was pretty rubbish, but I raised just over £110. I'd like to think that all of you out there, friends and colleagues will visit my sponsor page and pledge some of your money...

25 August 2006

Marmots

Marmots Originally uploaded by pauldevall.

Took these little devils on the Grossglockner. 

Marmots

The range was about 60 metres and so on my Nikon Coolpix 8700 I was way into digital zoom to get them. 

Luckily the little darlings were quite still as the slightest movement (or camera shake) renders maximum range on digital zoom useless i.e. completely blurred. 

I always use the full 8mb and the "fine" setting for pics to hopefully get a decent resolution.

23 August 2006

Austria & The Alps Day 12 - Home

Today started off badly. I dropped the bike exiting the petrol station in St Goar! Not anybody else's fault but mine. No real damage to us or the bike. Pride suffered the most with the bike getting scuffs to the plastic cylinder guard and to the right pannier.

I simply lost balance making a U-turn out of the place onto the road. It was slightly downhill and an acute angle to turn onto the road.. foot down, nothing there and bingo; nought mph keel over.

What is the secret to BMW mirrors? The right one is prone to loosening and spins about and as if by magic it fixes itself. But not today, over 200 miles before I managed to get it tight. This time I tugged up on it and turn it at the same time and it locked in place.

How the heck do you get them off? Mine simply turn round and bloody round. Aaaagh.

After 308 miles we arrived at Dunkerque for the 1600 ferry back to Dover. Holidays for 2006 nearly over.

Once I have got all the pix sorted on the camera I'll add to the blogs for each day. I tried to send some pix as attachments, but the were too big it said. All the entries are done as email from my O2 phone. Hence no paragraphs etc...

Austria & The Alps Day 12 - Home

Today started off badly. I dropped the bike exiting the petrol station in St Goar! Not anybody else's fault but mine. No real damage to us or the bike. Pride suffered the most with the bike getting scuffs to the plastic cylinder guard and to the right pannier.

I simply lost balance making a U-turn out of the place onto the road. It was slightly downhill and an acute angle to turn onto the road.. foot down, nothing there and bingo; nought mph keel over.

What is the secret to BMW mirrors? The right one is prone to loosening and spins about and as if by magic it fixes itself. But not today, over 200 miles before I managed to get it tight. This time I tugged up on it and turn it at the same time and it locked in place.

How the heck do you get them off? Mine simply turn round and bloody round. Aaaagh.

After 308 miles we arrived at Dunkerque for the 1600 ferry back to Dover. Holidays for 2006 nearly over.

Once I have got all the pix sorted on the camera I'll add to the blogs for each day. I tried to send some pix as attachments, but the were too big it said. 

All the entries are done as email from my O2 phone. Hence no paragraphs originally and then they will be sorted once I get home.

22 August 2006

Austria & The Alps Day 11 - Das Boot


A whole day on a cruise boat might sound a nightmare but in fact it was very relaxing to sit on deck before going to one of the saloons for a coffee and a cake. A chance to unwind and read a book.


Rüdesheim was a bit touristy and the greatest gathering of our fellow countrymen we had seen since we got off the ferry over a week ago. There are also more Christmas shops than seems really necessary, one lured Claire into buying a small snow storm dome thingy complete with snowman!

Back at the hostel we had a read and a second cake! Dinner to look forward to, then back to the hostel and start packing the panniers.


Doris reckons it's about 285 miles to Dunkerque and the ferry is at 1600, so we need to be away pretty smartly after breakfast. Should be home in time for Corrie!

One of the big successes has been the Lakeland vacuum bags. Apart from one losing the little slider that helps seal the zip end they have been tremendous - I wouldn't hesitate in recommending them to anyone.

Austria & The Alps Day 11 - Das Boot

A whole day on a cruise boat might sound a nightmare but in fact it was very relaxing to sit on deck before going to one of the saloons for a coffee and a cake. A chance to unwind and read a book.




Rüdesheim am Rhein was a bit touristy and the greatest gathering of our fellow countrymen we had seen since we got off the ferry over a week ago. 

There are also more Christmas shops than seems really necessary, one lured Claire into buying a small snow storm dome thingy complete with snowman!



Back at the hostel we had a read and a second cake! Dinner to look forward to, then back to the hostel and start packing the panniers.

Doris reckons it's about 285 miles to Dunkerque and the ferry is at 1600, so we need to be away pretty smartly after breakfast. Should be home in time for Corrie!

One of the big successes has been the Lakeland vacuum bags. Apart from one losing the little slider that helps seal the zip end they have been tremendous - I wouldn't hesitate in recommending them to anyone.

Austria & The Alps Day 11 - No bike day


I had to get up in the night to check on the bike as it was parked on dirt... 

As it had rained heavily for a few hours. In the end it was pitch dark and I had two disc locks to get off, then I could see f.a. and took in down outside the main entrance.


When I came to shift it later in daylight, I found I was only about 2ft from nice firm tarmac! 
Bugger!

Today is boat trip day, 1020 from St Goar. Let's see how it turns out.

Austria & The Alps Day 11 - No bike day

I had to get up in the night to check on the bike as it was parked on dirt... As it rained heavily for a few hours. We should be used to this by now. 

In the end it was pitch dark and I had two disc locks to get off, then I could see f.a. and took it down outside the main entrance.

When I came to shift it later in daylight, I found I was only about 2ft from nice firm tarmac! Bugger!
Today is boat trip day, 1020 from St Goar. Let's see how it turns out.




21 August 2006

Austria & The Alps Day 10 - North by Northwest?

Well. As is now the norm we set off in waterproofs. Waterproof over trousers and Hood Kevlar lined jeans do not make for happy motoring pleasure. Betty Swollocks within minutes. 

At least on the positive side Doris has got over last week's problem of losing the sats every ten minutes. And so she led up from Switzerland into Germany. Swiss petrol was reputed to be cheap, but the fill up I did just before the border was 118 cents a litre. So about 55p a litre. No wonder their so many American cars about with Swiss plates.

Once in Germany we hit the motorways. Getting to St Goar was more important than scenic touring! 

One small detour was forced on us when I chose the wrong Rüdesheim from the two options that Doris had in her city finder. I had a 50-50 chance and chose wrong. In mitigation I have to say that both were about the same miles from where I created the via point AND are the only two in the entire Atlantic base maps and 16 miles apart! As a result we added 20 miles to the days mileage and had come up the wrong side of the river so I aborted Rüdesheim am Rhein and came straight to St Goar. We had lunch and then booked in the YH.

Once unpacked and showered we walked back to town for a look-see and an ice cream. We watched the ferry going back and forth across the river to St Goarhausen and decided to have a boat trip and for €2.60 each return it was a good trip! 

Today's mileage was 260, and we'll have the same sort of day on Wednesday so tomorrow will be a no bike day to give our arses a rest. We plan to be plain tourists and take the riverboat trip to Rüdesheim am Rhein and back. It takes 3 hours to get there southbound but only 1 hour and 40 minutes to come back. 

Any guesses? River flow!!

Austria & The Alps Day 10 - North by Northwest?

Well. As is now the norm we set off in waterproofs. Waterproof over trousers and Hood Kevlar lined jeans do not make for happy motoring pleasure. Betty Swollocks within minutes. At least on the positive side Doris has got over last week's problem of losing the sats every ten minutes. And so she led up from Switzerland into Germany. Swiss petrol was reputed to be cheap, but the fill up I did just before the border was 118 cents a litre. So about 55p a litre. No wonder there are so many American cars about with Swiss plates.

Once in Germany we hit the motorways. Getting to St Goar was more important than scenic touring!

One small detour was forced on us when I chose the wrong Rüdesheim from the two options that Doris had in her city finder. I had a 50-50 chance and chose wrong. In mitigation I have to say that both were about the same miles from where I created the via point AND are the only two in the entire Atlantic base maps and 16 miles apart!

As a result we added 20 miles to the days mileage and had come up the wrong side of the river so I aborted Rüdesheim and came straight to St Goar. We had lunch and then booked in the YH.

Once unpacked and showered we walked back to town for a look-see and an ice cream. We watched the ferry going back and forth to St Goarhausen and decided to have a boat trip and for €2.60 each return it was a good trip! Today's mileage was 260, and we'll have the same sort of day on Wednesday so tomorrow will be a no bike day to give our arses a rest. We plan to be plain tourists and take the riverboat trip to Rüdesheim and back. It takes 3 hours to get there southbound but only 1 hour and 40 minutes to come back. 

Any guesses? Tide!

On the train... Rhätische Bahn

 

On the train... Rhätische Bahn, originally uploaded by pauldevall.

It was whilst on the leg of the journey homewards from the Stelvio, across the top of Switzerland, to Stein am Rhein on the western end of Lake Konstanz, we let the train take the strain.

It began raining hard from the moment we crossed into Switzerland, just after the Umbrail Pass, so I decided to avoid the ascent of the Flüelapass (2383m) and the 39kms of road over the pass via Davos. But how?

The map showed a rail tunnel from Susch to Klösters through the Vereina Tunnel. Decision made and we set off for it. Luckily it was clearly signposted and we found it despite major misting of my glasses and visor! The GPS also managed to find the eastern end of the tunnel before conking out with brain overload! The tunnel is slightly over 19kms long.

So for 18 Swiss Francs we went on the roller coaster ride that is also known as the Rhätische Bahn. In an open carriage amongst the cars we set off hell for leather into the bowels of the earth. 

I sat on the bike and Claire stood alongside. Such is the speed we spent most of the time visors down and holding on for dear life!! Claire managed to squeeze this shot off on her phone before we entered the tunnel as my gloves we so wet I didn't want to risk taking them off to get at my camera in my tank bag. It's a bit dark!

With the bike not strapped down at all it was a bare knuckle ride through the tunnel. Even on the sidestand I could barely hold the bike up.

If you like going to Thorpe Park or Alton Towers, this is far more exciting. You must try it.

20 August 2006

Stelvio!

A video Claire took on her camera phone!


Austria & The Alps Day 9 - Stelvio? Yes.

The entire trip has been like the search for shangri-la; the sunshine is just the other side of the mountain, when you get there it's.... Well you know!

Today it was sunny straight off. On the road from Merano it was dire. Traffic and lots of it. Being a weekend it turned out to be the last weekend of the school holidays for Swiss and German kids, and they were making their way home


Claire and Baloo in Bormio
Once on the road up to the Stelvio through Prato it was better.

There were a few twats about who seemed to enjoy cutting up other bikes as well as the cars. Sadly the two that cut across me as I was halfway around a tight turn were on 1200 GS's. So they were faster than me, but at the end of the day they were arseholes no matter what they rode.


Stelvio
Umbrail
After a wurst and a beer and a bit of sheltering from a shower, we set off taking in the Umbrail and into Switzerland. I was enjoying the almost deserted 8 miles to Santa Maria until after 2 miles of smooth tarmac it was unpaved packed mud and gravel time for the next 4. Not a worry one-up, but not as much deep joy two-up and loaded.

Luckily we were prepared at the sight of the blackening sky and were already togged up. We'd just got ot the top of the Ofenpass/Fuern Pass (2149m) when bikes coming the other way all had their wet kit on, so we did the same.



As we headed for Davos it started to pee down. We then decided to let the train take the strain for 11 euros we rode on the train through the Vereina Tunnel under the mountain to Klosters.


On the train... Vereina Tunnel
On the Vereina Tunnel train
This is an experience; loaded into a rail car that resembles the truck carrying carriages on the Shuttle. With the bike in gear and sitting on it with Claire standing holding my arm we hurtled through the dark for about 10 or 11 miles! Well worth the money! Better than a theme park ride for sheer fright!

The last 80 or so miles to the YH at Stein on the Rhine was uneventful. Nice medieval old town. Sitting having a bratwurst for dinner was the first night for over a week we haven't been surrounded by mountains as we ate.

Stein, Switzerland

Sunset over the Rhein

Stein, Switzerland

Stein, Switzerland
Tomorrow we set off north to the Rhine in Germany. Two nights in St Goar with a day off the bike?

Austria & The Alps Day 9 - Stelvio? Yes.

The entire trip has been like the search for shangri-la; the sunshine is just the other side of the mountain, when you get there it's.... Well you know!

Today it was sunny straight off. On the road from Merano it was dire. Traffic and lots of it. Being a weekend it turned out to be the last weekend of the school holidays for Swiss and German kids, and they were making their way home.

Once on the road up to the Stelvio through Prato it was better.

There were a few twats about who seemed to enjoy cutting up other bikes as well as the cars. Sadly the two that cut across me as I was halfway around a tight turn were on 1200 GS's. So they were faster than me, but at the end of the day they were arseholes no matter what they rode.




After a wurst and a beer and a bit of sheltering from a shower (!!) we set off taking in the Umbrail (2503m) and into Switzerland. 



I was enjoying the almost deserted 8 miles to Santa Maria until after 2 miles of smooth tarmac it was unpaved packed mud and gravel time for the next 4. Not a worry one-up, but not as much deep joy two-up and loaded.

Luckily we were prepared at the sight of the blackening sky and were already togged up. We'd just got ot the top of the Ofenpass/Fuorn (2149m) when bikes coming the other way all had their wet kit on, so we did the same.


As we headed for Davos it started to pee down. We then decided to let the train take the strain. For 11 euros we rode on the train through the Vereina Tunnel under the mountain to Klosters.


This is an experience; loaded into a rail car that resembles the truck carrying carriages on the Shuttle. With the bike in gear and sitting on it with Claire standing holding my arm we hurtled through the dark for about 10 or 11 miles! Well worth the money! Better than a theme park ride for sheer fright!

The last 80 or so miles to the YH at Stein on the Rhine was uneventful. Nice medieval old town.




Sitting having a bratwurst for dinner was the first night for over a week we haven't been surrounded by mountains as we ate. Of having to watch the sky for the rain clouds!

As we ate the sun began to go down over the Rhine/Rhein and we took some photos as the light faded.


Once again we had stayed somewhere really nice and the hostel was again of good quality.

Tomorrow we set off north to the Rhine in Germany. Two nights in St Goar with a day off the bike?

19 August 2006

Austria & The Alps Day 8 - Stelvio? No!

Between breakfast and of setting foot outside to load the panniers onto the bike it had rained. Sheepskins soaked through so it was waterproofs on (and off all day).

Passo Falzarego
Once on the main 100 road from Lienz to Italy it was hard going with trucks, motorhomes and bloody caravans and the last two along with tourist coaches set the tone for the day.

We did manage some passes I hadn't done before like the Valparola and Costalunga before we cut our day short at 1630, and according to Doris there were still two hours (at least!) to go to the Stelvio and our eventual overnight in Switzerland.

From the Pordoi pass it poured down making the 20 plus hairpins down to Canazei slippery and hard work given the tailgating and pillocks pulling out giving you hardly any chance or many options.

Claire at the Pordoi
After 134.4 miles we called it a day and stopped in Nova Levante at the Engel "Wellness Hotel". 

We had no idea if we would be let in. Dripping with water after torrential (at times) rain I sat at the top of the drive whilst Claire, the acceptable face of biking (!) went in. Yes of course they had room.

Whilst she waited for them to book us in, she had a free beer and sat in the dry.  Meanwhile I was outside being pissed on.

The hotel had free parking for the bike and I wish I had had a camera with me.  I had to ride on the road and then turn into the barn on a first floor level wooden bridge.  The barn had some cars in, but the whole lot creaked and I had to ensure I didn't drive down any of the cracks in the ancient planking.  At least it was out of the rain!

Tomorrow? Stelvio?

Austria & The Alps Day 8 - Stelvio? No!

Between breakfast and of setting foot outside to load the panniers onto the bike it had rained. Sheepskins soaked through so it was waterproofs on (and off all day). Despite it being August we had had very few dry days!

Once on the main 100 road from Lienz to Italy it was hard going with trucks, motorhomes and bloody caravans and the last two along with tourist coaches set the tone for the day.

We did manage some passes I hadn't done before like the Valparola, Falzarego and Costalunga before we cut our day short at 1630, and according to Doris there were still two hours (at least!) to go to the Stelvio and our eventual overnight in Switzerland.



From the Pordoi pass it poured down making the 20 plus hairpins down to Canazei slippery and hard work given the tailgating and pillocks pulling out giving you hardly any chance or many options.



After 134.4 miles we called it a day and stopped in Nova Levante at the Engel "Wellness Hotel"

We had no idea if we would be let in. Dripping with water after torrential (at times) rain I sat at the top of the drive whilst Claire, the acceptable face of biking (!) went in. Yes of course they had room.

Whilst she waited for them to book us in, she had a free beer and sat in the dry.  Meanwhile I was outside being pissed on.

The hotel had free parking for the bike and I wish I had had a camera with me.  I had to ride on the road and then turn into the barn on a first floor level wooden bridge.  The barn had some cars in, but the whole lot creaked and I had to ensure I didn't drive down any of the cracks in the ancient planking.  At least it was out of the rain!

Tomorrow? Stelvio?

18 August 2006

Austria & The Alps Day 7 - Grossglockner

There was only one goal for today and that was the Grossglockner and the two side attractions, Edelweisspitze and the Glacier.

After a very slow procession across country we got to the Grossglockner. The trip took us around the Hallstatter See and on small roads clagged with trucks and motorhomes. As it was a working day we would have better off retracing our steps from the day before and going via Schladming and Radstatt.

Unfortunately it was also the last weekday of the local school holidays in Austria and Germany and many people decided to cause a massive road block. Ironically to avoid the weekend's massive roadblock! Once again we had to slip on waterproofs as it began to rain a little.

On the way up to the tolls we stopped for a spot of lunch at the side of the road and watched the bikes going up towards the tolls and those that had done it and were coming back. Bikes of every sort, some fast but most taking it steady.

For most of the way from the toll booths we followed behind a couple of custom bikes with the pillion on the one directly in front using a video camera. Claire had my Nikon and took a load of pics from the back of our bike.

Edelweissspitze
First stop was to take the left turn up to the "Bikers Nest" at the Edelweissspitze. This part is very narrow and we got stuck behind a motorhome. We still followed the other bikes and the video queen.

It was bitterly cold up top and and we had a few minutes standing about looking at the orientation boards and reading about the pass and how long it has been open before we mounted up and Claire took the obligatory pic of a fat bloke on a GS by the sign. Luckily she managed to click the shutter just as a crowd of cyclists muscled in, you can see one of the observant chappies on the right of the pic.

From the Edelweiss we headed back down and off over the main part of the Grossglockner to take in Hochtor. 
Hochtor
I wanted to manoeuvre the bike to get a pic of the sign as I had done with the GT in 1999, but they have changed it a bit and put up a sculpture. When we arrived there were a couple of bikes and we needed a coffee, so after taking a pic of Claire by the patches of snow that nestled in the hollows alongside the Hochtor Tunnel we went for a coffee and hot chocolate in the gift shop. When we came out there were a couple of Croatian guys, one on a Triumph Rocket-3. We had a chat and he said that it had cost him €20000 but he thought it was worth it as it was a great bike. I took a pic of him and his buddy with his camera and he returned the favour, the GS now by the sign and the sculpture thingy.

From there it was a short ride to the roundabout that took us up Kaiser Franz Josef's Hohe and the sight of the grey glacier. Once again it is biker friendly up there, with separate parking and lockers to put your gear, so you don't have to traipse about with it. We opted to traipse about as we parked as near to the visitor centre as we could with a selection of GS's through the ages... It was warm in the sunshine and we had an ice-cream overlooking the Glacier.

The people that took the funicular railway down to the bottom of the valley looked like ants. It was then as I peered over the edge that we got to see a real marmot. I'd not really believed that they existed outside myth as we had been warned across the Alps from France in the West to look for them and hadn't seen hide nor hair, and then there they were, not just the furry toys the sell everywhere and that you can hear squeaking in all the gift shops as punters squeeze them, but real ones.

Marmots (and Alpine Choughs)
Marmots and a chough!


Once in Heiligenblut we played hunt the youth hostel as we had done in 1999 with Steve H. Last time we hadn't pre-booked so gave up. Although not sign posted it is about 150 metres from the main square and not where it is supposed to be on Google Maps! Thanks to the lady in the tourist office!

Tomorrow we head for Italy, the Dolomites and the Stelvio.

Austria & The Alps Day 7 - Grossglockner

There was only one goal for today and that was the Grossglockner and the two side attractions, Edelweisspitze and the Glacier.

After a very slow procession across country we got to the Grossglockner. The trip took us around the Hallstatter See and on small roads clagged with trucks and motorhomes. As it was a working day we would have better off retracing our steps from the day before and going via Schladming and Radstatt.

Unfortunately it was also the last weekday of the local school holidays in Austria and Germany and many people decided to cause a massive road block. Ironically to avoid the weekend's massive roadblock! Once again we had to slip on waterproofs as it began to rain a little.

On the way up to the tolls we stopped for a spot of lunch at the side of the road and watched the bikes going up towards the tolls and those that had done it and were coming back. Bikes of every sort, some fast but most taking it steady.




For most of the way from the toll booths we followed behind a couple of custom bikes with the pillion on the one directly in front using a video camera. Claire had my Nikon and took a load of pics from the back of our bike. Most of which are unusable as they are blurred from the motion!

First stop was to take the left turn up to the "Bikers Nest" at the Edelweissspitze. This part is very narrow and we got stuck behind a motorhome. We still followed the other bikes and the video queen.


It was bitterly cold up top and and we had a few minutes standing about looking at the orientation boards and reading about the pass and how long it has been open before we mounted up and Claire took the obligatory pic of a fat bloke on a GS by the sign. Luckily she managed to click the shutter just as a crowd of cyclists muscled in, you can see one of the observant chappies on the right of the pic.

From the Edelweiss we headed back down and off over the main part of the Grossglockner to take in Hochtor.

I wanted to manoeuvre the bike to get a pic of the sign as I had done with the GT in 1999, but they have changed it a bit and put up a sculpture.

When we arrived there were a couple of bikes and we needed a coffee, so after taking a pic of Claire by the patches of snow that nestled in the hollows alongside the Hochtor Tunnel we went for a coffee and hot chocolate in the gift shop.



When we came out there were a couple of Croatian guys, one on a Triumph Rocket-3. We had a chat and he said that it had cost him €20000 but he thought it was worth it as it was a great bike. I took a pic of him and his buddy with his camera and he returned the favour, the GS now by the sign and the sculpture thingy.



From there it was a short ride to the roundabout that took us up Kaiser Franz Josef's Hohe and the sight of the grey glacier. Once again it is biker friendly up there, with separate parking and lockers to put your gear, so you don't have to traipse about with it. We opted to traipse about as we parked as near to the visitor centre as we could with a selection of GS's through the ages... It was warm in the sunshine and we had an ice-cream overlooking the Glacier.

The people that took the funicular railway down to the bottom of the valley looked like ants. It was then as I peered over the edge that we got to see a real marmot. I'd not really believed that they existed outside myth as we had been warned across the Alps from France in the West to look for them and hadn't seen hide nor hair, and then there they were, not just the furry toys the sell everywhere and that you can hear squeaking in all the gift shops as punters squeeze them, but real ones.

Marmots (and Alpine Choughs)
Marmots and a chough!
Once in Heiligenblut we played hunt the youth hostel as we had done in 1999 with Steve H. Last time we hadn't pre-booked so gave up. Although not sign posted it is about 150 metres from the main square and not where it is supposed to be on Google Maps! Thanks to the lady in the tourist office!



Once de-bikered we had a walk up to the town centre and looked around.  Scoping out a restaurant for dinner and an ice cream sitting in the town square.

Yet again another really good hostel to stay in. Plenty of parking and hard standing for a motorcycle stand.

Tomorrow we head for Italy, the Dolomites and eventually the Stelvio.